Naming a new restaurant is never easy. Of course, if you’re stumped for ideas you could just type the name of a popular 1980s high-school movie into a synonym generator. Job done.
Located in the glitzy Sule Plaza near Shangri-La Hotel, The Brunch Society – to some extent at least – does what it says on the tin, with a menu of brunch options that includes a full English breakfast, chicken and waffles, and French toast. While it may not win awards for imagination, the Breakfast Burger (K11,000) – a thick beef patty served with bacon, egg and mushrooms all piled on top of a fluffy brioche bun – will surely satisfy those suffering the wrath of grapes, though for a place that has made brunch its brand, it’s a distinctly average effort.
In an attempt to please the brunch cynics the menu goes a bit off-piste, with a rather baffling selection of burgers, pastas and beef stroganoff risotto. The pan grilled seabass (K12,000), served with a lychee red curry on a bed of mashed potatoes, scores highly for originality, though the neon-orange sauce tastes suspiciously like it came from a bottle. Still, the fish is flakey and moreish, and the combination of lychees and pineapple in a spicy curry isn’t a bad stab at nouvelle cuisine. The fried chicken wings (K6000), on the other hand, are culinary minimalism in its purest form: Chicken wings? Check. Fried? Check. Flavour? Not so much.
If it’s hair-of-the-dog you seek, all of the usual cocktails are available, along with a few signature cocktails that aren’t half bad, if a little weak given the K6000 price tag. They also serve some pretty decent coffee if you’re willing to shell out K3500 for a cappuccino. If you’re able to order one in the first place, that is: Service is friendly and well-intentioned, but distracted, and catching the attention of a waiter requires at least some training in the dramatic arts.
The Brunch Society is one of a growing number of restaurants in Yangon seeking to attract a bourgeois crowd, and the sleek utilitarian interior, high ceilings and attempt at industrial-chic give off a distinctly haughty air, not helped by the fact that it was empty when we visited. If you’re looking for a place to hold a business lunch or protect a visiting second-cousin from Yangon’s precarious street-food you could certainly do a lot worse. For a lazy afternoon playing Scrabble, on the other hand, you’ll have to find an alternative morning meal confederation.
The Brunch Society
Sule Plaza, 143 Sule Pagoda Road, Kyauktada township
Perfect for… pre-cinema snacking
FBWT star rating:★★